The arrival of the 2008 Olympics can’t come soon enough for Beijing’s independent travelers, with a much needed overhaul of public transport and tourist information being a key issue the government had to address. However, much about the city and its infrastructure will have thankfully changed since Sarah and I struggled to navigate ourselves around it back in the autumn of 2002. What we soon discovered was a vast city of very few limited English speakers and signposts to tourist sites virtually non-existent. In an evolving Asian city these old Heritage sites are one of the few things that remain unchanged, but are now easier to get to I expect.
When one thinks of Beijing one can be forgiven for immediately thinking of the Forbidden City, so what better place to start at than the sprawling grounds that dominate Beijing’s city centre. Set aside a day for this excursion, particularly as you are more than likely take in the massive expanse of Tiananmen Square, a stones throw away, at the same time. Within the imposing 10metre high walls that are quietly lapped by a defensive moat lie a number of ornate gates, halls, palaces and gardens bearing fairy-tale names like the Hall of Supreme Harmony, the Hall of Preserving Harmony, the Gate of Heavenly Purity, the Hall of Heavenly and Terrestrial Union and so on. To say they are impressive is an understatement, and although not all of the buildings are accessible to the general public, that shouldn’t deter one from viewing them as a whole, they are certainly well worth the effort.
Tiananmen Square lies adjacent to the Forbidden Palace but to walk the length of it in its entirety will take a good 30 minutes. It’s massive, a huge area with but a few notable buildings of interest, The Gate of Heavenly Peace, the Museums of Chinese History and Revolution and of course, Chairman Mao’s Memorial Hall where he still lies in state - expect to join a long queue for that one if you’re feeling a bit macabre.
Out on the outskirts of Beijing lies the Summer Palace, and after a day pounding the pavements of this Beijing’s heart, you’ll probably be ready for something a bit more tranquil. Within the boundaries of these classical Chinese Gardens lie a number of halls and a huge lake one can circumnavigate. Start by walking along the famous Long Corridor, an ornately decorated and covered walkway which will lead you in part around the more northerly shore of Kunming Lake. Halfway along this corridor you can turn right and start the climb up to the Cloud Dispelling Hall and Pagoda of Buddhist Fragrance. If you’ve got plenty of energy feel free to branch off to any number of Pagodas and Pavilions that dot the steep tree-clad sides of Longevity Hill.
On returning to the Long Corridor, you can make your way further along this pleasant walkway to view what is perhaps the world’s one and only floating Marble Boat, well it appears that way anyway, again there are a number of small outbuildings to view here. Don’t be surprised if you’re stopped by a local tourist to have your picture taken with them, it’s a local pastime that breaks up the walk. Now, if you thought your work was done when you have made your way back to the gardens entrance, think again. Continue on, down past the Pavilion of Flourishing Culture till you come to the very splendid and aptly named, Seventeen Arch Bridge, a great place for photos across the lake.
No visit to Beijing would be complete without a day trip to the Great Wall of China. Most tourists head to the restored section of the wall at Badaling and yet, if you so desire, day trips to a more rustic, wild and unpreserved section of the wall can be arranged via your hotel tour guide. On a good day, when the skies are cobalt blue, the views are stunning and to observe the wall with its endless crenulations snaking up and down the steep ravines like a mystical serpent are as good as it gets. But, if it’s a day, and these are plenty, when the wall disappears into a shroud of mist you’ll find that the inclement conditions just add to the walls mysterious nature.
Back in Beijing, one shouldn’t forgo a visit to The Temple of Heaven Park to visit China’s most famous and photographed temple, it even appears on stamps! Within these quiet grounds you’ll find yourself strolling along the Path to Heaven which leads directly to the temple itself, a large circular bell-type building that is ornately carved and decorated within, you could describe it as China’s version of the Sistine Chapel. A lesser attraction within these grounds stands the semi-circular Echo Wall; any further comment would be superfluous.
Dotted around the city are any given number of smaller attractions one can choose to visit. If you have the time, and inclination, one Temple that actually still holds a place in the Guinness Book of Records is well worth a visit. Lama Temple (Yonghegong) has a number of wonderful old buildings; all built around 1700 and designed to surround a number of small courtyards. One of these buildings houses a ginormous statue that was carved from the trunk of what must have been a huge sandalwood tree. This temple, although popular with bus-loads of tourists, is still a site of unique charm and character and the bronze pots of burning incense add to what is truly is a magnificent, sensory experience.
Now for those wishing to go off the beaten track a bit and see a more remote area of China and take in two other historical sites, an overnight train will take you to the city of Datong near the Mongolian border. The city has little to offer apart from one astonishing jewel, the Yungang Caves. This sandstone ridge houses some of China’s best preserved Buddhist carvings, some of them dating back to the fifth century. You will some find some of the smaller carvings hiding in grotto like caves with tiny porthole doorways, others exposed to the elements and standing proud at over fifty feet tall. The site doesn’t take long to cover as the carvings are all grouped together, a good thing as this allows you time to head out to the impressive Hanging Monastery. It’s a long drive but this truly is an awe-inspiring site and the fact you can actually walk up, in, on, and along this cluster of temples that cling to the cliff-face like barnacles on a whale is an experience you’ll never forget. Don’t be deterred by what sounds like a long journey, the barren landscape is amazing and if you ask your guide nicely, they’ll probably arrange a visit to a local farmers dwelling where you’ll be gob-smacked by the incredible cleanliness of these tiny little huts in what is fundamentally, a valley of dust. 
Beijing’s nightlife is gradually taking off. Most nightclubs are located in hotels but if it’s live music and a younger crowd you’re after then head to Sanlitun Lu. Peking Opera is an alternative night out, an art-form in itself that many Westerners find a tad high-pitched and distressing at first; still, it’s an option and nightly performances can be booked at local playhouses and theatres. Shopping malls are open late and food courts can generally be found on the top floor. Restaurants are aplenty and one should certainly try Peking Duck at some point, the Bianyifang Roast Duck Restauarant is believed to be the best in town.
If you want to explore a local shopping district or market area then head along to the Qianmen area where you’ll find a smorgasbord of shops selling clothes, antiques, crafts and hot-pots, a good place for lunch, which you’ll have earnt after what was no doubt a very active four or five day break in China’s most historic city.