Cambodia’s main tourist attraction, the Temples of Angkor, lie in the north-east of this predominantly rural country, a land that even to this day, is still finding its feet after the terrifying regime of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. It doesn’t take long to discover that Cambodia is home to a lost generation; speak to almost anyone and they’ll tell you of a missing brother, sister, parent or cousin, and yet somehow, they still manage to smile. Cambodians are a warm, welcoming and friendly lot who have suffered far too much, and yet still they give what little they have and share. Around the Temples of Angkor you will meet countless gangs of happy little children all trying to sell you some postcards or a “cold drink.” Spare them a few minutes of your time and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by their amazing levels of English, taken aback by their obvious enthusiasm and interest to meet you, to know you. Their welcoming smiles, shining eyes and joy-filled nature will leave an indelible imprint as strong as the Temples themselves. You’ll soon discover that Cambodia, and its people, have come a long way, that they have finally been allowed to flourish in the stability that now presides across this once all too troubled land. Many people, as my Sarah and I did, leave Cambodia with some amazing memories, and for once, a few too many pangs of guilt in the heart. 
Siam Reap, a small developing town that is now home to a growing number of hotels, restaurants and bars; sandwiched between the sprawling grounds of the Temples of Angkor to the north and the world’s largest freshwater lake, Tonle Sap Lake, to the south. Six kilometers away from the heart of this tranquil dusty town you’ll find the gateway, and entrance, to the Temples of Angkor. A three day or one week pass can be purchased and hiring a motorbike and driver in Siam Reap is a great way of really getting a feel for the place.
Most people star at Angkor Wat, and why not, it is the largest and “most impressive” Temple but you’ll soon discover that each Temple complex can lay claim to “being the best.” An uneven avenue of large ancient flagstones leads you past two huge lawns, each the size of a football field with perhaps one or two gardeners, each sensibly adorned with a trademark conical hat, heartbreakingly cutting grass with a scythe. Once in the temple itself you’ll have to work your way through a myriad of chambers till you reach the Temples center, where you climb three flights of narrow steps to view the lush green countryside from any of the towers atop these steps.
Angkor Thom and Bayon lie nearby and here’s where you’ll get your first chance to glimpse the first of many carved images of the fearful smiling face of the Goddess Avalokiteshvara, Bayon has over 200 alone. Then there’s a number of gates to pass through, terraces of beheaded Buddha’s, the Terrace of the Leper King and the Terrace of Elephants. All impressive beyond belief yet somehow, thankfully, not over-run with tourists.
The circuit around this temple complex understandably has a paved road, although it is surprisingly clear and by choosing to undertake this journey by bike, in my humble opinion, is something you won’t regret. You really get a sense at being one with nature, the sights and smells you experience as you make your way around the grounds is mesmerizing. The roadside grass seems to be the greenest grass in the world, lit by magical rays of light that force their way through the tall trees that line the long stretches of macadam. Locals on passing bikes pip and wave, smiling children with the whitest teeth call out “Hello Mister, David Beckam” or “Liverpool.” It’s an experience that warms the heart from within; the place is like a dream, a mirage. I lose track of the times I ask myself “is this really Cambodia?”
Ta Promh was the Temple I had perhaps desired to see the most. Left to the jungle and in a decaying state of disrepair, it’s the one place where a battle still takes place. The lichen covered walls are crumbling, bulging, collapsing; huge blocks of intricately carved stones now lay upturned, over-run by the might of the jungle and the huge root systems of the twisting, turning trees above, almost implausible. It was a truly memorable day; and a hot one, a cold beer in the salubrious surrounds of the Piano Bar was something to look forward to. 
Further afield you can make a day trip to Banteay Srei, another impressive temple you can take in before heading on to Kobal Spien and the River of a Thousand Lingas where you’ll find a number of large ornately carved blocks laid into the riverbed to bless the water as it makes its way down to the temple region. Again the local countryside and villages you pass through are truly amazing, picturesque and scenic beyond belief. The whole experience of Angkor Wat, the Temples, the surrounding countryside and its friendly people is guaranteed to leave you feeling inspired and full of hope. A trip here is an amazing and enlightening experience, one that I’m sure you’ll never regret, or forget.