The Perentian Islands
One of Asia’s best kept secrets lays a hefty stones throw off Peninsular Malaysia’s east coast, not far from the famous old coastal market town of Kota Baru and near where Malaysia borders with Thailand. You can get there by taking a slow boat, which takes an hour, or a rather bumpy but exhilarating speedboat ride (20 minutes) across the choppy waters of the South China Sea. Either way will deliver you safe and sound to the islands of Pulau Perentian Besar and Kecil (big and little - although little and littler might be more apt.)
If it’s the quiet life you’re after then this is it. Pristine, white-sand beaches devoid of blaring music, masses of tourists or vendors persuading you into buy their wares all conspire to guarantee you’ll soon feel like you’ve stepped onto seventh heaven. For those of you who aren’t the type to rest on your laurels, lounging on a beach isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, then fear not, all you have to do is hit the sea.
The Perentian’s aqua-marine waters are one of its major attractions and if they fail to leave you mesmerized, and its hard to imagine they won’t, then what’s within them definitely will. The islands coastal waters are teeming with an abundance of amazing living corals and a marine life that’ll bewitch your eyes in sheer delight. Whatever your style, snorkeling or scuba, these waters will keep you occupied for as long as you like with the numerous dive sites and cordoned off areas to snorkel dotted around the islands shores. At Long Beach on Pulau Kecil there are at least four dive operators from which to choose and gear for snorkeling can be rented virtually anywhere.
I chose to do both and was rewarded with finally getting the chance to swim with my first turtles, an amusing and magical experience it proved, watching them flap their ways through clear seas in their unique bird-like style. I also saw my first octopus. A rather nerving experience where I instinctively sensed the danger that this dark and spooky moving creature emitted as it crept across the reef. Blue spotted manta, angel fish, large eels, rockfish and schools of barracuda are what you’ll see most common amongst others but perhaps most impressive of all was a huge bump-headed parrot fish, tearing chunks of coral from the reef and leaving huge clouds of silt in its wake, an awe-inspiring experience and certainly amongst some of the best dives I’ve made.
Now, as the islands are only five minutes apart by boat, it makes sense to visit them both while you’re there. Between them you can experience a mix of water-sports, jungle walks where you’ll need to keep eyes peeled for small, luminous green, diamond-headed snakes and large monitor lizards that creep out to bask in the late afternoon sun or stroll across Kecil island to sunset beach and chat with tourists from around the globe who gather here to watch nature do its thing.
Nightlife is quiet too. Both islands offer little more than the chance to dine at one of the beachfront restaurants that serve a mix of local and European cuisine, read a book, watch a movie or peg out on an empty beach and listen to the sea gently lapping the islands shores and do a spot of star gazing. In a busy world, the Perentian’s are a welcome retreat and a great place to unwind, be bedazzled by its seas and appreciate nature as it’s meant to be.
     

Malaysian Jewels

        Island hopping in Malaysia? Can it be true, I hear you ask? Well it is, and the three main jewels in question, well Islands actually, are Langkawi, Penang and Pangkor.  They lie slightly adrift of Malaysia’s more northerly west coast, in the famous Malaccan Straits and are conveniently located not too far apart which makes visiting them a very attractive option, aided by the fact that individually, they are stamped with their own unique unquestionable charm. Each Island is a destination in its own right but putting the three together makes them a great alternative holiday destination. As for me, working my way south to Singapore after three weeks touring Thailand, it made sense to spend some more time in Malaysia, exploring a side I had yet to see.
Day One
        Kuah, the largest and busiest town on Langkawi where the ferry terminal lies is the main port of arrival for most holiday makers that come here, even though there is an international airport on the west of the island. In Kuah you will find duty free shopping malls, landscaped and pleasant waterfront parks and good restaurants serving freshly caught seafood. However, I had chosen to head out to Pantai (beach) Cenang, a twenty minute taxi-ride south-west of Kuah. Getting around the island is easy. Taxis are abundant and relatively cheap and most people connected with the tourist trade speak good English. Accommodation and car hire can be arranged at the ferry terminal on entry but you will probably get a better rate fronting up, especially in the low season.
I arrived at Cenang late afternoon, a time when Asian beaches seem to really come alive. As the tide eased its way out and the beach widened from its original skinny strip, people flocked to the beach to take a dip in the islands warm waters, collect some of the many impressive washed up shells, dig for buried cockles or partake in other beach type activities like football, frisbee and water-sports such as paragliding and jet-skis. Now sat comfortably in a restaurant over-looking the beach, my feet buried firmly in the sand and a birds eye view of the beach, I contently watched the world go by and a spectacular sunset unfold before my appreciative eyes. The sky by now was a montage of orange, red, maroon and cobalt blue, somehow looking surreal against the distant hills that had taken on a purplish hue. Together the whole scene conspired to provide a truly awe-inspiring effect. Nature at its very best!
Day Two
A short drive round the coast from Cenang you will find the picturesque and tranquil Oriental Village, set at the base of Gunung Mat Cincang, a sprawling range of dramatic peaks. Here you will find gift shops selling a variety of good quality local handicrafts and souvenirs, new restaurants serving international foods, coffee shops and bakeries in plush landscaped grounds, carp filled ponds, waterfalls and ornate bridges where one can photograph oneself galore but more importantly, and this perhaps being Langkawi’s number one draw, a chance to take to the heavens - the cable cars.
These will lift you, although you may well wish you left your stomach behind, to the islands peaks and offer fantastic views back across Langkawi as well as out to its neighbouring islands and on a clear day, even further afield to Thailand. If you come to Langkawi and only do this it will leave you open mouthed, especially the descent which makes you feel like you’re literally falling out of the sky, but don’t close your eyes or you’ll miss a fantastic view of Seven Wells Waterfall which I decided to explore once my feet were firmly, and thankfully, back on terra-firma. 
Seven Wells Waterfall is a ten minute walk from the car-park which houses more knick-knacky stalls and a number of very inquisitive monkeys. The walk is uphill but certainly worth it. You can hike further up the steps to the top of that section of the falls and get a great view across the forests to the sea, and then take a well earned rest, which you’ll probably need it after all those steps, whilst dipping your weary feet in one of the pleasant pools of rather cold, but reinvigorating, water that have been created there. You can hike further into the hills but at this point, the path splits in two and either way is quite strenuous and more suited to the serious jungle trekker.
There are plenty of other natural sights around Langkawi like the Cave of Legends, Temurun Waterfall or Dayang Bunting Lake on Pulau Dayang; or you may choose to visit the Crocodile Farm, Underwater World or the large and extensive Craft and Cultural Centre at the north of the Island. There’s plenty for all ages. For me though, it was time to repack the bags and set sail for Penang, that being in the morning, hopefully after another fantastic sunset and splendid meal at Pantai Cenang.
Day Three
A two hour ferry ride delivered me into the bustling busy streets of Georgetown, Penang. Like Langkawi, there are numerous hotels from which to choose ranging from budget come backpacker style to the expensive. I went mid-range to the Oriental at the top of Chulia Street, the gateway to Chinatown that funnily enough, has a thriving Indian and Malay community within it. But I decided to start my walking tour of Penang with a trip to the town’s Museum, only a ten minute walk from my hotel, which very quickly enlightened me to the wonders of Penang’s history and the many different communities and cultures that reside within it. Rojak is perhaps the best way to describe it. There are many more interesting artifacts worthy of a mention, but it’s best to just go and see, it’s well worth the ridiculously small entrance fee.
Walking the streets of Penang is perhaps the best way to get a real feel for the city. Chinatown is a cacophony of hustle and bustle, people dashing to and fro while an older generation sits contentedly, and perhaps more wisely, watching the world go. Pungent smells and sizzling meats, motorcycles and trishaws weaving the busy streets, sometimes it’s as if there’s simply just too much to see. However, the colonial district in stark contrast, seems far more sedate but you will find crowds gathering to view the old ruins and canons at Fort Cornwallis. From here you can see Victoria Memorial Clock-tower (And no that isn’t anything to do with posh spice, actually our dear departed Old Queen Vic) and other architecturally interesting buildings like the old City Hall and St. George’s Church.
Little India’s, anywhere in Asia, are always vibrant and colourful affairs with bustling Sri Mariamman Temples, open-fronted restaurants serving fine cheap food and Penang’s is no different, a must see and must do experience, as is visiting Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi, a meeting hall come temple constructed over a century ago for a Chinese clan of the same name. It’s dark and intimidating inside, yet ornate beyond belief externally with its mass of intricate carvings, red and gold painted roof, dangling dragons and large hanging lanterns with family names inscribed on their sides. Again the entrance fee is small.
After all that walking about town I felt I’d earned a hearty meal and I’d got just the place in mind. I’d spotted a great looking open-fronted restaurant not far from the Sri Mariamman Temple off of Chulia Street. Tandoori chicken, mutton stew, and a fantastic garlic naan cost less than 10 ringit in a friendly and welcoming place, as is the Hotel Ping where I ambled to next. Here you can sit outside and watch the world go by whilst watching noodles, rice and chicken satay being cooked for hungry punters perched on plastic stools roadside.
Day Four
After fresh coffee and croissants served at a nearby bakery, I headed out to the Botanical Gardens for a pleasant, early morning stroll. When I arrived, morning mists could still be seen rising from the dense jungle that surrounds the well maintained gardens. The air was surprisingly, but pleasantly, cool. A refreshing way to start the day but Penang Hill was my main destination for the day. Sadly though, the funicular railway system, apparently a great experience, was currently under repair and will be for some time. However, undeterred, I still made it to the top via a back road that is currently being utilized by the hill’s government workers to ferry punters to the top 4x4 style. It’s not cheap but its well worth it for the amazing view across Georgetown and the North Channel to Butterworth and beyond, a scene best appreciated from the Bellevue Hotel gardens with refreshing glass of lemonade. The top of the hill is a nice area to walk around and explore. The blue homely-looking police station is worthy of any picture postcard. There is also a mosque, Hindu Temple, tree-top walk and some very quaint cottages with breath-taking views to see.
My last stop for the day was the sprawling Kek Lok Si Temple, high on a hill on the outskirts of Penang, not too far from Penang Hill. You enter the temple through a labyrinth of souvenir shops, a pond teeming beyond belief with turtles and a restaurant serving good vegetarian food. Inside the Temple grounds it really is a photographer’s dream. There’s a huge pagoda which you can climb, courtyards, out-buildings with various images of the Lord Buddha, huge bells and a number of huge statues at the rear of the Temple grounds, accessible by a lift/come funicular cart system. Again the views across Georgetown are spectacular and that’s where I was heading, for another night around Jalan Chulia and Chinatown, where else.
Day Five
A morning’s journey on a bus and a thirty minute ferry ride delivered me to the smallest of the three Islands’, Pulau Pangkor. Its main attractions are its beaches which are neither spoilt nor over commercialized. I choose to stay at Nipah beach on the East coast, one of the best beaches on the island according to my book, which once again proved right. At the northern end it has an interesting outcrop of rocks where people come to climb, explore and take photos. Jet-skis, snorkeling equipment and canoes can all be hired as well as a boat service that will take you for a spin round the bay or over to Pulau Giam which is only two minutes away. By late afternoon the beach was a hive activity but then again, it was Saturday and many Malaysians flock over from the mainland for the weekend. It was also, I discovered as I sat amongst the small crowd that had gathered, another great place to watch the sun fall out the sky.
Day Six
For the more active types, like myself, there are a couple of jungle treks across the island that might be worth doing for the experience but I decided to hire a bike and cycle round the island. It proved to be a safe and interesting way to see the Pangkor’s offerings at a leisurely pace and not surprisingly, the roads were generally traffic free. I headed to Pangkor Town to check out its market come main street that has a number of interesting shops and restaurants to see. There’s not a great lot to see on Pangkor, small bays, old temples, a lot of jungle and an old Dutch Fort at the south of the island; but the real beauty is in it’s quaint brightly painted houses and potted plants, its clean streets and friendly people who call out “Hello’s” as you cycle by. It took me three hours in all, and I’ll be honest and say that one hill at the north of the island was a killer - but worth it for all the free-wheeling I got to do on the way down, so I was grateful for it only being a five minute walk from my accommodation in Nipah Bay to Coral Bay, definitely Pangkor’s best beach. Emerald waters, white sands and a distinct, but much appreciated, lack of vendors, shops or people ensured that this was a beach on which anyone can truly relax. At the northern end of the beach I noticed a religious shrine pulling in a few inquisitive visitors. For me though, now armed with a sarong, a tub of sun cream and a good book, the beach beckoned and that’s exactly where I laid, for the entire afternoon. Heaven. Pulau Pangkor proved to be a pleasant place to finish my journey, or my Malaysian Island hopping experience as I like to refer to it. Pangkor was an island I hadn’t necessarily being desperate to visit, but one I was most certainly glad that I did.  
Later, as I sat in the shade of one of the many trees overhanging Coral Bay, I reflected on what each of the three islands, Langkawi, Penang and Pangkor, had offered/shown me. What I quickly realized was that they are all very different, each offering something special, something unique that the others couldn’t quite manage. My six days, two on each island had passed quickly. I could easily have stayed longer, explored a bit more, that’s what I surmised. Maybe next time, I will!